Heather Jock Hut: the most perfect backcountry hut

Heather Jock Hut is one of the best hikes from Glenorchy located in Whakaari Conservation Area. This is either a day or overnight trip to a beautiful Central Otago backcountry hut, full of mining history and gorgeous views.

Length: ~17km return with 900m elevation gain / descent

Time taken: 3.75 hours up, 2.5 hours down. Can be a day trip, we overnighted at Heather Jock Hut.

Difficulty: easy – medium

Facilities: long-drop toilet at trailhead carpark. Various historic huts along the track with no toilets or water supply (overnight stays not allowed).
Heather Jock Hut: 3 bunk basic hut with long-drop toilet, and water tank supplied from rain water which is collected off the roof. (May run dry during periods of dry weather / lots of use). Free to use, no bookings required (first come, first served).

– Important: this area has a rich mining history. There are many holes / mines off-track, so be careful and watch your footing (and small children). Heather Jock Hut is very small. It is highly recommended you are prepared to camp if the hut is full or turn back around. –

---

Why Heather Jock Hut?

This trip was actually my sister’s (Heather’s) idea, which is only fitting really given the name! She’d gone up to Heather Jock Hut a few years ago on a day trip from Queenstown. This time she wanted to stay (or complete the nearby McIntosh Loop Track) when she was back down in the Queenstown area for Christmas. I didn’t need too much convincing to spend a night in a lovely backcountry hut, although you might notice from the above times that I wasn’t the fittest.

---

How to get to Whakaari Conservation Area and the trailhead

The trailhead for Heather Jock Hut (and the McIntosh Loop Track) is found in the Whakaari Conservation Area. This area has a lot of awesome hikes from Glenorchy that I’ll definitely be coming back to explore! The carpark is about two kilometres from Glenorchy itself and sign-posted on the northern side of the Queenstown – Glenorchy Road. Just be careful going in and out; the turn-off doesn’t have the best visibility.

---

If you’re looking for other Glenorchy hikes near Queenstown then check out these trips:

---

Mt Judah Road

Dad, Heather, her partner Scott and I headed towards Glenorchy late on a summer’s day between Christmas and New Years. We’d planned to start later in the day to avoid the heat, since a good part of the track winds its way around the north-facing slope of Mt Judah, soaking in the summer sun.

We arrived at the carpark around 4.30pm, heaved on our packs (including tents and bedrolls), and started on our way. Because Heather Jock Hut is so small (only three bunks) and isn’t bookable, I would highly recommend carrying your shelter with you – you shouldn’t rely on scoring a bunk.

I was a little nervous. I hadn’t done any tramping for the past two months; struggling with what the rheumatologists thought was reactive arthritis (bilateral knee swelling to the point I couldn’t walk). And I certainly hadn’t carried a pack with full gear for tenting in a long time. Most of the track is a good grade – half of it is on the old Mt Judah Road – but the elevation gain isn’t to be sneezed at (at least not for me).

And the track starts off strong. While the first few minutes are flat walking along the road, that’s just there to lull you into a false sense of security – which of course is the purpose of any flat walking track in New Zealand. Because once past some buildings, the road turns into a gravel track and quickly starts climbing steeply to reach the Mt Judah Road. At this point I began to question my motivation for the trip as my lungs burned and my calves caught fire. Why was I doing this to my body again? How would my knees handle coming down all this the next day?

Less than half an hour later though, we were on the Mt Judah Road. This is at a much more reasonable gradient (but still distinctly uphill, much to my legs’ dismay). From here it was easy walking all the way to the McIntosh Loop turnoff, which took us another 45 minutes.

Along the Mt Judah Road are several points of interest from the old mining that occurred in the area. Unlike most of Central Otago’s historic mining sites, this wasn’t only gold mining! Scheelite was discovered in them there hills, and became especially important during the world wars. Scheelite, or tungsten ore, is used in the hardening of steel and helped the supply of armaments such as shells and tanks.

It only takes 40 minutes from the carpark to reach one of the scheelite batteries, and an hour to the Mt Judah / State mine viewpoint. Many locals were out enjoying small day walks which was awesome to see on such a nice day. (And not just because it meant less people trying to overnight in the tiny Heather Jock Hut – there had been a lot of vehicles in the carpark). Even if you’re not wanting an overnight trip, walking up to one of these sites will give you some great insight into the history of the area, as well as beautiful views back over Lake Wakatipu and Glenorchy.

---

McIntosh Loop & Jean Hut

We soon turned the corner into the Buckler Burn valley proper, and left the lake views behind. After just over an hour from the carpark we reached the turnoff to the McIntosh Loop Track. I sat and chatted with a lovely French guy we’d played leapfrog with along the road. (And who was probably surprised this random Kiwi girl wanted to practice her rusty French). He headed off to McIntyre Hut, while we sat and contemplated Heather Jock Hut. Or at least where we thought it was. It seemed very far away and high above us to me.

After Heather had attended to some blisters that were forming from her new boots, we set off once more. The Mt Judah Road kept climbing gradually but relentlessly up the side of its namesake. I puffed my way up at the back of our group while the others loped ahead up front.

As we drew closer to the next point of interest, Jean Hut, I started to smell fresh mojitos. Heat stroke, I wondered? Was I so unfit that I’d started hallucinating? Was this some sort of olfactory mirage? If so, why was I not smelling margaritas and churros?

Eventually I looked down at my feet to see wild mint growing along the sides of the track, crushed by the three ahead of me and wafting out its beautiful fresh smell. I would have snorted, but that would have involved interrupting my puffing.

We had a quick pitstop at the turnoff down to the historic Jean Hut (which you can’t stay overnight in). This was also where the loop track we’d be taking on our way back down the next day rejoined the Mt Judah Road. The right-hand track we took up is steeper but easier to climb up in my opinion. The left-hand track we took back down has a lot of switch-backs which were nicer on the knees coming down (but would feel like forever going up).

---

Boozer and Bonnie Jean Huts

I’m not sure what time we made to the Jean Hut turnoff, but the next historic hut along the track was the amazingly named Boozer Hut. It took us 2.5 hours from the carpark to get to Boozer Hut (with some good stops for bandaging blisters and general heavy breathing). I wished I’d grabbed some of that mint (and packed some rum), just in keeping in the spirit of the old shepherd/miner the hut had been named after. (Although seriously, how much of an alcoholic do you have to be to be nicknamed Boozer when you’re surrounded by miners and live in the early 1900s … )

On the way up to Boozer Hut (and yes, I do laugh every time I write that name), we passed by more signs of old mining activity. Lots of old roads and bridges, and even an old wire flying fox with a bucket that was used to ferry ore across the valley. Dad suggested we put Heather in the bucket and push her across, but it looked a little rusty.

Both Boozer and Bonnie Jean huts are almost like mini museums. The inside is barred so you can’t go more than a step inside (so they can’t be used for overnight stays). But there are informative panels explaining more about the history of the area and the specific huts. Boozer Hut actually used to sit a lot higher at the head of Bonnie Jean stream. It was airlifted out in 2011 after becoming threatened by a slip. Bonnie Jean Hut is a bit larger, and is only ten minutes steep walk above the new site for Boozer Hut, across the stream.

---

Heather Jock Hut

From Bonnie Jean Hut it was another 45 minutes – an hour of wandering up through the tussocks until we reached our final destination; Heather Jock Hut. The sun got slowly lower in the sky and the light started to turn more golden.

Heather and Scott raced ahead, while Dad kept me company. When we rejoined the loop track, we knew we weren’t too far from the hut – but we both needed a proper rest. We sat sharing some chocolate and staring out at the amazing view. There was barely any wind, not a cloud in the sky, just silence and golden light. Beautiful.

From the signposted junction with the loop track, it took less than ten minutes to reach the hut. And what a quaint little hut Heather Jock is! Just three bunks, a bench and a spare space where the fireplace would have once sat. And beautiful glass windows overlooking the best views! Plus it’s surprisingly well maintained (thanks to Queenstown’s Czech and Slovak Club)!

When we arrived we saw we weren’t the first (and arriving at 8pm we hadn’t expected to be). Two lovely British expat ladies had already made themselves at home, so after taking in the views some more, we changed to Plan B and explored around for a suitable campsite.

Just below Heather Jock Hut and slightly to the right (when facing away from the hut), we found a large flat area without too many large tussocks, obviously manmade from the old mining days. The perfect campsite! Heather and Scott set up my tent to use, while Dad pitched his own more lightweight tent nearby. Then it was time to sit down, enjoy the views, dinner and drinks. And the sunset, because it really put on a show.

I ended up spending the night in Heather Jock Hut after all, rather than sharing my snoring father’s tent (one of the ladies had also brought a tent, pitched close to the hut so there were two bunks spare.) But I needn’t have worried about choosing the quieter option – at 3am some rowdy possums (perhaps having started their night at Boozer Hut) jumped onto the tin roof and proceeded to have a noisy barn dance for what felt like hours. I wasn’t cool enough to score an invite so can’t comment on their dance moves.

---

And back again …

I was woken up just before dawn by my hut mate getting up to use the long-drop. Normally this would be a tad annoying, but not this day! I sat up and looked out the window – the most gorgeous sunrise I’d ever seen in my life was starting.

Like out of this world amazing.

I watched in silence as the sky slowly turned incredible shades of pink and red, before skipping down the tussocks to wake the others. It was the best way to start the morning. Soon though, after a quick breakfast, it was time to turn around and go back down (although not quite the same way we’d come up).

After saying goodbye to the hut (does anyone else do that? no? just me?), we started our way down. At the loop intersection we took the opposite way to the day before, turning right and heading down the switchbacks.

What had seemed like forever on the way up went pretty quickly on the way down (isn’t that always the way!). Before long we’d reached Jean Hut, close to the start of the Mt Judah Road, and had a small rest.

Two locals joined us there. They’d ridden up on e-bikes. I instantly regretted my life choices.

After Jean Hut we crossed Bonnie Jean creek and rejoined the Mt Judah Road. From there it was easy sailing (albeit long sailing) until we finally turned the corner and saw those beautiful views over Lake Wakatipu again.

It took us two and a half hours to get from Heather Jock Hut back to the carpark, although we weren’t motoring. The last part of the Mt Judah Road felt ten times longer than it had on the way up. My feet, no longer used to carrying a pack on hard-packed ground, were telling me they’d had enough. Quite insistently.

But soon enough, just as the day’s heat was really starting to build, we reached the carpark and were off to Glenorchy for a well-earned milkshake.

Heather Jock Hut was a beautiful backcountry hut and an awesome experience. Particularly the sunrise and alpenglow that morning. I still can’t get it out of my head. AND best of all my knees were fine during and afterwards, and haven’t troubled me since! So maybe that means I’m cured? I have my fingers double crossed.

---

Safety

As always, please stay safe when you’re out exploring. Follow the Outdoor Safety Code:

1. Choose the right trip for you (read my article on tramping safety, talk to DOC)
2. Understand the weather
3. Pack warm clothes and extra food
4. Share your plans and take ways to get help (have an emergency beacon on your person)
5. Take care of yourself and each other

If you’re not feeling super confident then you can always get in touch with me here on the blog or on my Instagram. Or take a look at my Tramping 101 series which includes this post about how to stay safe in the outdoors.

Also, check out my guide to New Zealand tramping etiquette – you really don’t want to be a dick, do you?

Stay safe and get outside!

---

If you liked this article then please leave a comment and share with anyone you think would be interested, it really helps me out!

Looking for more backcountry gems?

Here’s the trips that should be next on your to-do list:

---