April, 2020
Invercargill, New Zealand
As I sit here writing this, New Zealand is currently in week three of a nationwide lockdown due to an out-of-control pandemic sweeping the globe.
Who would have ever thought I’d have occasion to write that sentence!
Despite the fact I work in a hospital that has been preparing for this for a while, it still seems surreal. There are moments where I can almost believe that the world has somehow slipped into the plot of a dystopian novel or movie, complete with inappropriately upbeat-toned alerts on the TV and radio urging us to stay home and unite against the common enemy.
But I’m very lucky. I’m healthy. My family and friends are healthy. I have a guaranteed job. And I live in a country that has a comparatively small low-density population, easily controlled borders, trusted police force, and easy access to free healthcare. Many people are not in the same boat.
So instead of complaining about not being able to head into the mountains like I had planned to do this long Easter weekend (a relatively minor inconvenience, all things considered), I thought I’d share something more positive instead. A list of the adventures that I’ve been looking forward to going on. Most of these are New Zealand-based tramps (hiking trips for those non-Kiwis). Some are overseas adventures I’d like to experience, one day, while some I’ve completed before, but were so good I want to visit again.
Let me know what you think of my list – does it match up with your plans? Are there any trips you think I’ve missed and should add? If you’ve been on any of these adventures please get in contact and let me know how it went!
2022 update
Well a lot can change in two years’ time my friends! The trips on this list haven’t been changed, but I have included updates for the ones I’ve managed to complete. I was surprised to realise that all up I managed to do seven of the nine trips I’d chosen back in 2020!
I really enjoyed updating this article with the new trip reports I’ve written about amazing adventures over the past couple of years. The pandemic and 2020 lockdowns really made me appreciate the ability to get out and explore our beautiful country, and I feel like I definitely made the most of it.
I hope you enjoy this list!
Cascade Saddle, Mt Aspiring NP
Expert route, 3-4 days, mixture of huts + tenting
Cascade Saddle, an absolutely draw-dropping trip in Mt Aspiring National Park Park, has been on my list for quite a while now. When I went up to French Ridge Hut last year, I gazed up at the saddle, mentally adding it to my to-do list. DOC classifies it as an expert route. The full traverse from the West Matukituki Valley near Wanaka over to the Dart River near Glenorchy takes 3-4 days (depending on whether you choose to camp at the saddle).
It’s only doable (for someone with my level of experience) in the late summer / early autumn months, with less chance of snow and ice. On top of this you need a good enough weather-window in those months to attempt it, as the route is extremely exposed. Needless to say I haven’t been able to complete it yet – although it had been on the cards for this Easter weekend before the lockdown threw a wrench in the works. Just have to keep my fitness up!
2022 update
I managed to climb up Cascade Saddle with my Dad earlier this year one of my all-time favourite adventures. We climbed up to the saddle, camped, explored the Dart Glacier, and then walked back down the same way. The Rees-Dart is now top of my to-do list.
You can read all about our adventure here:
– Cascade Saddle trip report –
Gertrude Saddle / Barrier Knob, Fiordland NP
Expert route, full day walk with overnight at Homer Hut beforehand
Gertrude Saddle is a trip I’ve done a few times before as a youngster, although the last time I was on the saddle would have been almost a decade ago. Although it can be a bit of a tricky climb (fatalities have occurred below Black Lake and on the saddle itself), on a good day and with adequate route-finding skills it’s an absolutely stunning trip with gorgeous views out to Milford Sound. Dad has been trying to convince me to go further up to Barrier Knob above the saddle, but we’ll see how we go.
2022 update
In January 2021, while my husband walked the Milford Track on a work trip, I climbed up to Gertrude Saddle with a group of friends. We had gorgeous weather and amazing views. On top of that, I also managed to tick Barrier Knob off my list as well! In March 2022, my Dad chose a perfect weather window to take myself and some friends up to the top. I was a bit nervous about this trip, the photos speak for themselves.
You can read all about these two trips and check out the photos here:
– Gertrude Saddle trip report –
Hump Ridge Track, Fiordland NP
Soon-to-be Great Walk, 3 days, huts
DOC announced that the Hump Ridge will become one of New Zealand’s newest Great Walks in 2022. It was opened in 2001 after much hard work by the locals and is now managed by the Tuatapere Hump Ridge Charitable Trust. Many of my friends have completed it and have all said it was lovely, if challenging (with a steep first day and a lot of boardwalk). My family and I walked in to Port Craig (managed by DOC) before the Hump Ridge portion of the loop was completed (and swam with dolphins on the beach by the hut!), however I would love to complete the whole loop before it becomes a Great Walk.
Also, did I mention that the trust has a liquor licence so you can buy ciders and beer on arrival to the hut, plus many other luxuries such as renting pillows, showers, etc. Count me in!
2022 update
I tackled the Hump Ridge Track with Matt and our friend Tessa over Easter this year. I’m yet to write a blog post about it, but super stoked to have made it, even if it was the last straw of an insanely busy tramping season that gave me plantar fasciitis.
Here are some resources I used to plan my trip:
- Offical Hump Ridge Track page
- DOC website
- Young Adventuress blog
- Cat and Joe’s Walk My World blog
- NZ Pocket Guide website
- Lilian Pang’s blog post as well as her YouTube video
Mason Bay, Rakiura NP
Standard track, overnight in Mason Bay hut
Mason Bay is another tramp on this list that I’ve actually completed before; at the end of my first year of university. At that time I was still recovering from a pretty severe case of glandular fever / mono. It caused me to miss 3/4 of that semester’s exams (and fever-hallucinated during the one I actually sat), wear special clothes so I didn’t get bed sores, forget much of November of that year, and undertake weekly blood tests for a month post … Needless to say I wasn’t my usual self and wasn’t able to fully enjoy the trip!
Mason Bay is renown for being an awesome location to spot wild kiwi. And luckily a couple of the birds came right up to the deck of the hut, so I still got to see them, not being up to nocturnal searches like the rest of my family. Also luckily when my uncle’s boat got grounded on sand bars the next day on our way back to Oban, I was allowed to stay in the boat while everyone else got out and pushed (thanks fam).
But I would love to go back and be able to experience the trip fully. And see some more wild kiwi. Matt and I have been thinking of perhaps flying in or out of Mason Bay instead of walking the same track there and back again, as I don’t remember it being particularly inspiring.
2022 update
Not long after writing this list, I’d made it to Mason Bay with Matt and our friend Lauren! It was an epic 4-day post-lockdown adventure, that involved flying into Mason Bay and then walking all the way back to Oban. And yes we did see kiwi! Quite a few of them. And no, we were nowhere near fit enough after having spent months locked away indoors during lockdown. Check out my write-up here:
– Mason Bay – Freshwater – North Arm trip report –
Kepler Track, Fiordland NP
Great Walk, 3 days, huts
The Kepler was my first big tramp without adults, just my best friend Hannah and her younger sister for three days. I have vague memories of chocolate and scroggin eating, smashing Hannah and Emily at 500, and having to crawl along some of the ridges because the wind was so strong. It’s been over a decade since I last walked the Kepler and I’d love to do it again, or at the very least climb up to Luxmore Hut over winter. My parents recently were volunteer wardens at Luxmore. Dad’s photos just renewed my desire to get up onto those ridges again (hopefully minus the wind gusts this time).
2022 update
I still haven’t re-walked the Kepler Track in its entirety, but I’ve stayed at both Luxmore and Moturau Huts on various occasions over the past few years since that initial lockdown. Luxmore Hut was actually our first overnight trip post-lockdown while there was still a limit on how many people could congregate in DOC huts. We tented outside, which you’re not allowed to do under normal circumstances. And Moturau Hut was a trip I organised for some workmates who hadn’t done much tramping before, a perfect first hut experience!
My husband Matt also ran the Kepler Challenge in 2020 (alternate course) and 2021 (full course, but delayed until January 2022 due to COVID). I cheered from the sidelines and ate chocolate, since I’m not quite that level of crazy.
Resources for planning a Kepler Track trip:
Alex Knob or Mt Fox, Westland Tai Poutini NP
Advanced tramping track (Alex Knob) or Expert Route (Mt Fox), overnight wild camp
I first saw photos from Alex Knob on Instagram – it’s become a popular spot on social media, but when you see the view over Franz Joseph glacier from the top you can see why! It’s a steep uphill climb, but the views are worth it (if you manage to get a clear day). I’m tossing up between Alex Knob and the less popular Mt Fox (with views over … you guessed it … Fox Glacier), time will tell which one I choose.
2022 update
In February 2021, my friend Penzy and I used a free weekend to climb up Mt Fox and camp the night. It was just as epic as I’d hoped. The climb up was challenging, but the views and sunset were absolutely stunning. Read all about it here:
Valley of the Trolls, Fiordland NP
Unmarked route, 2-3 days, mixtures of huts + tenting
I first saw this trip while perusing Wilderness magazine and was struck by the gorgeous photos. The walk around the Lake Harris bluffs has always been one of my favourite parts of the Routeburn track. I’d love to explore further up the lake and valley to get away from the Great Walk crowds. This trip would only be doable for me in the late summer / autumn due to the avalanche danger in winter / spring. Snow and ice can endure in the shade until mid summer (you’re not going to see me climbing up a frozen waterfall anytime soon).
2022 update
We made it! Valley of the Trolls was one of my most memorable trips. In November 2021, Matt and I joined our friends Hamish and Ashley to climb over Emily Pass, and then on our way back stopped in at the Valley of the Trolls for a night. We had the whole valley to ourselves, and it was a beautiful reward after tackling Emily Pass two days before. Read all about it here:
– Valley of the Trolls trip report –
International Adventures:
Tasmania, Patagonia, Dolomites, Canadian Rockies
I’ve been dreaming for quite a while of travelling to Tasmania, Patagonia and Canada to complete some of the amazing hikes there. Last year I worked with a colleague from Tassie who was generous with his knowledge and photos. One of my French host sisters now lives in Chile and has told me numerous times I should come and visit Patagonia. And I’ve always wanted to visit Canada, which seems like a bigger version of New Zealand in some ways (except with bears, eek). Who knows what will happen with international travel in the future, and how expensive that might become. But I would love to get to these places one day.
2022 update
After suffering a miscarriage while tramping the Routeburn Track in late 2021, I’m now pregnant again! So our planned international travels will have to be put on hold for now, as we wait excitedly to welcome our little girl into the world in 2023.
In the meantime here are some of my Dad’s photos from his trip to the Dolomites a few years ago.
Canada is just like a bigger version of New Zealand! I haven’t done any hiking in the Rockies but would love to go as well (just with experienced people) As much as I love wildlife it’s another thing to be walking among them. Besides that I know you would love the rockies!! One day!
One day Lauren!! I would have absolutely no clue about tramping with wildlife that’s actually dangerous – we’re pretty lucky here in New Zealand that the worst thing we’ve got are sandflies.
An excellent account Alice. I really enjoyed both your descriptions and the stunning photos.
Thanks Gill! The photographers who lent me their shots are pretty awesome! Glad you enjoyed the read.
STUNNING PHOTOS, EVERYONE!!!!
Thanks! They’ve got some great shots!
Amazing hikes, love seeing you getting out there and completing them all. Thanks for the list!
Thanks Emily! Hope you’ve been able to add to your list 🙂